Shed Moving & Relocation
We move sheds — across the yard or to a whole new address
Moving a building isn’t something to improvise with a few friends and a trailer. We do it with a Shed Mule — a machine built for the job — lifted properly and placed exactly where you want it, on a spot that’s ready for it, so the doors still close in five years. We move buildings we built and buildings we didn’t — as long as it’s a factory-built shed from the brands we service, sitting on proper 4×4 skids. Custom-built and homemade buildings we have to pass on.
Start with a call to Omar. Omar Stoltzfus handles our moves, and five minutes on the phone usually settles it — whether your building is a good candidate for the lift, what the new spot has to look like, and roughly what it runs. Reach him at (610) 857-3420. Can’t call right now? Text photos to (717) 715-2342 and we’ll pick it up from there.
Photos we need to quote your move
Text all three groups to (717) 715-2342. A picture or two of the shed alone isn’t enough. We have to see how we get it out and how we get it in before we can give you a price.
1. The shed you want moved (several shots)
Tells us the size, the condition and whether it can take the lift.
- All four sides, each from far enough back to see the whole wall
- The skids underneath: get low at a corner so we can see the 4×4s
- The floor inside, with the shed emptied if possible
- Any rot, damage or soft spots up close
2. The way out: from the shed to the road
Our truck and Shed Mule have to get the building out of there.
- Standing at the shed, looking toward the road or driveway
- Walk the path and take a picture every 30 to 50 feet, all the way to the road
- Gates, fences, trees, low branches, overhead wires, steep spots or soft ground along the way
- Where the truck and trailer would park at the road
3. The way in: where it gets delivered
Same thing on the other end, so there are no surprises on moving day.
- From the road, looking toward the new spot
- The path from the road to the spot, a picture every 30 to 50 feet
- Gates, fences, trees, wires, slopes or soft ground on that path
- The new spot itself, from two directions
Also tell us
- Size of the shed (width × length)
- Who built it, if you know
- Pickup address or zip and delivery address or zip
Moving it across your own yard? Groups 2 and 3 become one: the path from where it sits now to the new spot, plus the new spot itself.
Why the skid photo matters (for moves to a new address): If we’re hauling your building to a new property, it needs to ride on our trailer — and our trailer tracks are set at 6’ wide. That means the building needs proper 4×4 skids at standard 6-foot spacing. That’s the spacing every factory-built Amish shed maker uses — Stoltzfus Structures, Sheds Unlimited, Lapp Structures, and similar. Custom-built or homemade buildings often don’t have standard 4×4 skids at the right spacing, which can make an over-the-road haul impossible. Moving a shed across your own lot is a different story — send a photo either way and we’ll tell you honestly.
How a shed move works
Three steps, and it starts with a phone call or a few photos — not a site visit you have to schedule.
Call Omar — or send photos
Easiest first step is a call to Omar Stoltzfus at (610) 857-3420 — he can size the job up on the phone. If you’d rather start with pictures, text them to (717) 715-2342 (our picture-message line): several shots of the shed including the skids underneath, the path from the shed out to the road, and the path from the road to where it’s going. We need all three to quote it. The photo checklist above lists every shot.
We size up the job
We tell you whether the building can be moved safely, what the new spot needs, and what it costs — before anyone schedules a truck.
We move it and set it
Our crew lifts it with the Shed Mule, hauls it if the move is off-property, and sets it exactly where you want it — blocking it where the set calls for it. The new spot needs to be ready before we arrive; if you’d rather we handle that, we can level a site for a fee and quote it with the move.
The moves we get called for
Some are twenty feet. Some are a couple of counties. All of them start the same way.
Across your own property
Repositioning the building somewhere else on the same lot — squaring it to a fence line, clearing room for an addition, or getting it off ground that keeps holding water. No road transport, usually the quickest and least expensive move we do.
To a new address
Moving with you, or moving a building you bought from someone else. We lift it, load it on the trailer, haul it, and set it on the new spot. The building needs proper 4×4 skids at standard 6-foot spacing to ride on our trailer — most factory-built Amish sheds have this. Distance and access on both ends drive what it costs.
Selling or buying a property
Taking your building with you when you sell, or getting one you inherited with a purchase off the spot it’s in. Both are common calls for us.
What we move — and what we don’t
We move factory-built portable sheds and portable garages from the brands we service — up to 10 feet high, sometimes 11 by exception. Our equipment is built for those, so a fair number of things fall outside what we do, and it saves everyone time to say so up front.
Buildings we move
- Factory-built portable sheds and mini barns from the brands we service
- Portable garages and shed-style garages, size and access permitting
- Buildings no taller than 10 feet high (we’ll sometimes make an exception up to 11 feet)
- Buildings sitting on proper 4×4 skids, correctly positioned, that we can get the Shed Mule under
Not something we handle
- Anything over 11 feet tall — too high for safe road transport
- Two-story buildings
- Chicken coops, playhouses, run-in sheds, and animal shelters
- Custom-built, homemade, or site-built structures — these are too hard to move safely
- Any building with no 4×4 skids, or with the skids in the wrong position
- Sheds from brands we don’t service (see our brands list)
- Shipping containers, conex boxes, and box-truck cargo bodies
- Metal carports, steel buildings, and pole barns set on posts
- Concrete, block, brick, or other masonry buildings
- Anything on a permanent poured foundation, or attached to a house
- Mobile homes, campers, RVs, and trailers
- Anything that would have to be craned over a house, fence, or power line
Those jobs need a crane, a heavy-haul rig, or a house-moving outfit — different equipment than ours. We’d rather point you in the right direction than take a job we can’t do well.
Not sure which side yours falls on? Call Omar at (610) 857-3420 — one look at a photo usually settles it in a minute.
How we schedule moves — the honest version
We’d rather tell you this now than after you’ve been waiting on us. Moving sheds is a service we offer, but it isn’t our main business — building and delivering new structures is. That shapes how moves get scheduled:
- There is normally a backlog. Moves get scheduled behind our build and delivery work, so it can be a few weeks before your job comes up.
- We do moves when we’re already in your area. We don’t send the crew and equipment out on a special one-off trip for a move by itself — we work it into a run we’re already making.
- Ordering a new building changes that. If you’re buying a new structure from us, the equipment is coming to you anyway — so we can handle the move on the same trip and get it done much sooner.
- On a hard deadline? Tell Omar up front. If a settlement date or closing means it has to happen by a certain day and we can’t promise it, he’ll say so rather than leave you hanging.
One more limit worth knowing: we only move factory-built sheds from the brands we service. Custom-built and homemade buildings are too hard to move safely — there are usually no 4×4 skids underneath, or the skids run the wrong way or sit in the wrong spot, and there’s nothing solid to lift against. A quick photo of the underside tells us in seconds.
What a move needs to go smoothly
Four things we check before we ever put a date on the calendar.
Completely emptied out
Everything out before we arrive — shelving and anything bolted to the walls or floor included. Weight that shifts mid-lift is what damages buildings.
Structurally sound with proper skids
The floor, sill plates, and framing need to be solid enough to take the lift. For road transport, the building must have 4×4 skids at standard 6-foot spacing to sit on our trailer. Photos of the inside floor and the underside tell us everything we need.
Clear access on both ends
A firm, dry, unobstructed path wide enough for the equipment. Watch for narrow gates, low branches, overhead lines, and soft ground.
A ready spot to land on
Level and firm, ready before moving day. If it isn’t there yet, we can level a site or build a gravel or concrete pad for a fee and quote it with the move.
Not every building is worth moving. If the floor is soft, the framing is failing, or it’s a thin big-box kit that was never built to be picked up, we’ll tell you straight — sometimes the honest answer is that hauling it away and starting fresh costs less than moving it twice. We’d rather say that up front than damage your building on the lift.
What drives the price
We don’t publish a flat rate, because the same size building can be an easy afternoon or a two-crew job depending on the site.
Size of the building
Width especially. A standard-width shed travels on the road normally; an extra-wide building can require permits and an escort, which changes the job.
How far it’s going
Repositioning inside one property is the least involved. Moving to a new address adds road transport, and distance drives a real part of the cost.
Access on both ends
A clear, firm, straight shot is quick. Tight gates, tree lines, slopes, and soft ground all add time and equipment.
What the new spot needs
If the landing spot is already level and firm, the set is straightforward. If it needs leveling, or a gravel or concrete pad first, that’s site prep — a paid add-on we can do for a fee and quote alongside the move.
Text photos to (717) 715-2342 (the shed, the way out to the road, and the way in to the new spot) with rough dimensions and both zip codes and we’ll come back with a real number. Full photo checklist. Getting the new spot ready is the customer’s side of the job — see our site preparation guidelines for what that looks like. If you’d rather not handle it, we can level a site for a fee and quote it with the move. If it turns out moving it isn’t worth it, we also do removal and haul-away.
Shed moving questions, answered
Do you move sheds you didn’t build?
Yes, within limits. We move factory-built portable sheds and portable garages from the brands we service, as long as the building has proper 4×4 skids in the right position for our trailer and stands no taller than 10 feet — we’ll sometimes stretch to 11 feet on the right job. Most factory-built Amish sheds have the right skids (Stoltzfus Structures, Sheds Unlimited, Lapp Structures, and similar builders all use them). What we don’t move: custom-built, homemade, and site-built structures. They’re simply too hard to move safely — they usually have no 4×4 skids at all, or the skids run the wrong way or sit in the wrong spot, and there’s nothing solid for the equipment to lift against. Anything two-story or over 11 feet is out too. Send photos of the underside and we’ll tell you straight.
How soon can you move my shed? Do you make a special trip?
Straight answer: shed moving is a side service for us, not our main business, and there is usually a backlog. We schedule moves for when our crew is already going to be in your area, so it can be a few weeks before the right trip lines up. We don’t make special one-off trips for a move on its own. The one exception is if you’re also ordering a new building from us — then we can bring the equipment out with your delivery and handle the move on the same trip. If you’re on a hard deadline (a settlement date, a closing, a contractor waiting), tell Omar up front so he can tell you honestly whether we can hit it or whether you’d be better off with a company that moves buildings full time.
How much does it cost to move a shed?
There’s no flat rate, because no two moves are alike. Price is driven by the size of the building, how far it’s going, how easy the access is on both ends, and what the new spot needs before the building can sit on it. Send photos, dimensions, and both zip codes and we’ll quote it upfront — no surprise charges the day of.
Can you move it just a few feet in my own yard?
Absolutely, and that’s often the simplest job we do. Repositioning a building across the same property — to square it up with the fence line, clear a new addition, or get it off a spot that keeps flooding — usually only takes the Shed Mule and no road transport at all.
Do I need to empty the shed first?
Yes, completely. Contents shift and add a lot of weight during a lift, which is how floors and walls get damaged. Everything needs to come out before we arrive — including anything anchored to the walls or floor.
Can you move a shipping container, cargo box, or metal carport?
No — those are outside what we do. Our equipment is built for wood-framed buildings sitting on skids or a wood floor frame we can get under and lift. Shipping containers, conex boxes, box-truck cargo bodies, metal carports, steel buildings, masonry buildings, and anything on a permanent poured foundation all need a crane, a heavy-haul rig, or a house-moving outfit instead. Same goes for mobile homes, campers, and trailers. We’d rather tell you straight than take a job we can’t do well.
What can stop a shed from being moved?
A few things. For road transport, the building needs proper 4×4 skids in the right position to ride on our trailer — custom-built and homemade buildings usually don’t have them at all, or have them running the wrong way, which is why we don’t move those. Rotted floors or sill plates often can’t take the lift. And on the site side, narrow gates, low branches, overhead power lines, steep grades, or soft wet ground can block access. That’s exactly why we look at photos first instead of finding out on moving day.
Does the new spot need to be prepared before you move it?
Yes — getting the spot ready is the customer’s responsibility, and it needs to be reasonably level and firm before we arrive. We don’t include site work in a move, but we can level a site for a fee if you’d rather not handle it: gravel pads, concrete pads, and leveling are all things we quote as paid site prep. Setting a building on soft or sloped ground is the fastest way to end up with doors that won’t close a year later.
Can you move a shed that’s wider than a normal load?
Sometimes, but wide buildings change the job. Extra-wide loads can require permits and an escort vehicle on the road, so those are quoted case by case. Tell us the width up front and we’ll tell you what it involves.
Will your equipment tear up my yard?
The Shed Mule is built to work in tight spaces and does far less damage than dragging a building or running a full truck and trailer across a lawn. That said, it’s heavy machinery — on soft or wet ground it can leave tire impressions. We’ll flag it ahead of time if conditions look like that’s a risk.
Got a building that needs to move?
Give Omar Stoltzfus a call at (610) 857-3420 — he’ll tell you straight whether it can be moved and what it costs. Or text (717) 715-2342, our picture-message line: several shots of the building, the path from it out to the road, and the path from the road to the new spot, plus rough dimensions and both addresses. We need all three sets of photos to quote it.
Family Owned
Since 1988
38+ Years
Quality Service
4.8 Stars
50+ Reviews
Serving 4 States
PA, NJ, DE, MD
PA Licensed
Specialty Builder · #PA024436